Reviews
Hi, Rory, I don't mean to imply that reviews necessarily do one thing or the other. Actual reviews frequently fall into one category or the other, however: score-settling or mindless congratulation. My view reflects my own preference & practice--what I look for in a review--however imperfectly I achieve it. I've certainly read thoughtful pans that were smart and provocative--Adam Kirsch is very good at these--though I choose not to write them myself.
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