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Unread 08-29-2012, 07:57 AM
Nigel Mace Nigel Mace is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Borders, Andalucia and Italy
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Second all the recommendations so far, especially in Verona the Mantegna altarpiece in S. Zeno - itself a magnificent space - but, if you relish the Renaissance, do not miss the magical Pisanello frescos in Sant' Anastasia just north of the beautiful Piazza dell' Erbe. (Also a fascinating relief of the martyrdom of St Peter Martyr on the right side of the west door - if the history of the representation of anti-dualism is to your taste!)

The cultural delights of Ravenna roll way beyond the Dante tomb, but I'm sure you know of them anyway. However, do not visit without eating (lunchtime has a great buzz) in the Ca' d Ven - a wonderful wine mecca with great local food and more individual Sangioveses than you can count. (There's a similar place in Verona the Antica Bottega del Vino - Via Scudo di Francia 3 - also wonderful, especially in the evening.)

In Vicenza, I can recommend the Relais Santa Corona for a city centre hotel - even has a sinuously difficult garage (a huge plus in the city centre - but book for your car ahead as it only takes 2!) with the excellent Al Pestello about two corners away for eating and drinking - and browsing more Italian wine and food guides than you ever thought possible. And while you are hunting down classical poets, don't miss the little town of Arqua di Petrarca with Petrarch's tomb and his beautiful last house (the one from which he had his exchanges with Boccaccio about having abandoned Florence for the hospitality of a signorie and the Este family). This is a wonderful mixture of layers of worship and the sheer beauty and peace of the location and of the building itself - and what a visitors book! In any case the Eugenian hills are worth a wander through in themselves - and at their base you can find the extraordinary Casa del Vento in whose upper chamber Galileo sheltered with Venetian friends when lying low from the Papacy. The food, though very good, is not quite as special as it used to be but the naturally wind cooled cellars are a marvel and worth the visit alone.

Padova is another huge plus and often missed are the Donatello panels on the high altar of St Antonio - people tend to settle for the equestrian statue outside as the altar panels are sometimes obscured by the coach loads of pilgrims who tend to dominate the whole church. Oh - and if Mantegna has taken your fancy already, there are the sad fragments of his wonderful cycle in the Eremetani church (unfortunately largely destroyed by a stray US bomb in the war - but you can find hand tinted colour photos from before the war to set the scene.)

All that Gregory says about touring from Sirmione which is itself delightful, especially out of season. (His post sounded like my 'Gardaphile' mother in full flood, as for her this was the jewel among all the Italian lakes.)

And don't listen to John - Italian driving is nowhere near as bad as it used to be; it's just decisive - he who hesitates is... And take Gregory's advice and stay. (But you'll have noticed I haven't urged you south to Le Marche - that's a secret for another time!)

Best wishes and buon vacanza,
Nigel
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